Experimenter

August 2013

Experimenter is a magazine created by EAA for people who build airplanes. We will report on amateur-built aircraft as well as ultralights and other light aircraft.

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H in t s F or H o m e b uil d e r s A Tail Wheel Shimmy No, it's not a dance By Cy Galley Do you fly a taildragger? Does your tail wheel shimmy, shake, or bang from stop to stop? Most tail wheels will shimmy quite easily if the design geometry is wrong (and most are), if the friction device (Scott No. 3234, thrust plate No. 4 of diagram) is misadjusted or gets grease on it, if there is looseness in the various parts, or if the mount or spring is not secure. The first item, geometry, is easy to check. The pivot should be vertical under load. The top should never be slanted to the front of the aircraft. If the pivot top is slanted under load a little toward the back of the plane, that's okay. As your tail spring weakens with age and less than spectacular landings, the pivot will slant toward the front of the plane. You can replace the spring or have it re-arched. The re-arching has to be done cold. No heat! Some spring companies will do it, but our local truck spring company will not have anything to do with aircraft springs due to the company's worry of liability. So if you have a large hydraulic arbor press at your disposal, press away. I have also seen it done with a large sledgehammer and a piece of channel iron. This gets a little noisy but works very well. While you are at it, make sure someone hasn't removed a leaf in the misguided attempt to make the plane "ride" better. Also included in the geometry check is the lean of the wheel. It should stand vertical from side to side. If it leans, then the spring or mount is twisted, or the axle has been bent. Check your hard rubber tire for "coning." A hard rubber wheel can be re-trued on a lathe by grinding or sanding. The pneumatic tire should not have flats or cups, and the pressure should be around 45 to 50 pounds per square inch. 28 Vol.2 N o.8 /August 201 3

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