APR 2015

Experimenter is a magazine created by EAA for people who build airplanes. We will report on amateur-built aircraft as well as ultralights and other light aircraft.

Issue link: https://experimenter.epubxp.com/i/492505

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Page 27 of 32

28 Vol.4 No.4 / April 2015 HINTS FOR HOMEBUILDERS Replacing Control Cables In this 400th EAA Hints for Homebuilders video, Earl Luce demonstrates a great way to attach an old cable that is being removed with a new replacement cable by fi shing it through bulkheads and around pulleys. How to Make a Hot-Wire Bow EAA Technical Counselor Mike Busch shows how to assemble a homebuilt hot-wire bow to cut foam for composite layups. Cutting Plywood Achieving a clean cut line without splintering can be a challenge when using a jigsaw. Timm Bogenhagen from the EAA staff gives a couple tips that can minimize wood splintering on your cut line. Air/Oil Separator Dick Koehler discusses the design and use for an air/oil separator. Dick is a Technical Counselor for EAA Chapter 186, A&P aircraft mechanic with Inspection Authorization (IA), and SportAir Workshop instructor. HINTS FOR HOMEBUILDERS VIDEOS HERE ARE SOME OF THE LATEST HINTS FOR HOMEBUILDERS ADDED TO THE MORE THAN 450 HINTS CURRENTLY AVAILABLE HERE: MOST OF US KNOW that the Wright brothers had a bicycle shop to support their aviation experiments. How many of us use common motor oil or one of the packaged aerosol lubricants for the pivot points on our plane—ailerons, fl aps, elevators, etc.—even though those lubricants run of the application point, attract dirt and dust, and make a mess of things? But we need some sort of lube to keep things turning freely and easily and to prevent binding and corrosion. Enter a solution from the bike shop. Drive chains and cables on bikes work in a constant dirty environment as a bike rider forges through rain, dirt, and sand. Any lubrica- tion has to penetrate down a cable and into the rollers of a chain. It won't remain liquid where it will be thrown off the chain nor hold dirt, water, and abrasives. It has to be dry after application and still repel moisture and prevent corrosion. Bike shops have several synthetic lubrication products for chains; these products are thin during application but leave behind a high-strength lubricating fi lm when they dry. This works great for chains and cables as the lubricants penetrate deep down into cable housings and into the interior of chain rollers. The product that I use is in a squeeze bottle with a nice spout for precise application. Just stay away from any products that are silicone-based as they can create painting problems later, just like silicone-based waxes. Who knew that bike shops still support aviation? A 'Wright' Tip More help from the bicycle world BY CY GALLE Y

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